1. What is Penghu?
When international travelers think of Taiwan, they usually picture the bustling streets of Taipei or the mountains of Taroko Gorge. But sitting right in the middle of the Taiwan Strait is a hidden archipelago: Penghu. Made up of 90 islands and islets, this is where locals go to escape the city grind. If you are looking for a laid-back island vibe without flying all the way to Southeast Asia, this is the place.
2. Why Visit Penghu? (The Good, The Weird, and The Catch)
So, is Penghu worth adding to your Taiwan itinerary? Here are a few honest reasons why I loved it—and one big heads-up before you go.
🏖️ The Laid-Back Vibe & Unbelievable Water Colors.
The pace of life here is wonderfully slow. The beaches are fantastic, and the color of the seawater is so beautifully clear and vibrant that it can rival some of the famous tropical resorts.
🤿 Island-Hopping & Snorkeling
You can’t visit Penghu without jumping on a boat. The island-hopping tours are well-organized, and the snorkeling experiences let you explore some surprisingly beautiful coral reefs.
🌋 Cool Geological Wonders (Manage Your Expectations, Though!)
Penghu is famous for its basalt columns. To be completely honest, the ones I saw on Xiyu Island didn’t absolutely blow my mind, but they are still a very cool geological feature. What did impress me was Kuangfu Islet (Moses Parts the Sea)—watching the ocean literally split open to reveal a walking path during low tide is a wild experience.
🍧 Bizarre but Delicious Local Eats: “Grass Jelly Ice” (仙草冰)
You have to try the local shaved ice dessert made with “Mesona” (Grass Jelly). I know, “grass jelly” sounds like something you’d feed a lawnmower, and the black, wobbly texture might look strange to foreigners. But trust me, topped with shaved ice, it is incredibly refreshing in the summer heat.
⚠️ The Catch: It’s Not Very English-Friendly
Here is the reality check: Penghu is highly geared toward domestic tourism. English signs are limited, and many local vendors don’t speak English. You will definitely need Google Translate, a bit of patience, and an adventurous spirit to get by
3. When to Visit (And When to Absolutely STAY AWAY)
Timing is everything in Penghu. If you pick the wrong month, your tropical island dream will turn into a windy, itchy nightmare.
✅ Best Time to Go: April to August
The weather is hot, the water is warm for snorkeling, and everything is open. (Bonus: If you go around May to June, you might catch the spectacular International Fireworks Festival).
❌ Avoid the Northeast Monsoon: October to March
I cannot stress this enough: do NOT go during the winter months. Penghu gets hit by the notorious “Northeast Monsoon.” It’s not just a breeze; the winds are so insanely strong that it becomes physically difficult to ride a scooter (which is how everyone gets around). Most island-hopping boats stop running, water sports are canceled, and many restaurants close for the season. You will literally be blown away, and not in a good way.
🐛 The September “Caterpillar” Warning
Here is a very weird local secret: try to avoid late August to September. During this time, strong winds often blow the microscopic hairs of local caterpillars into the air. If they land on your skin, you can get a super itchy allergic reaction known locally as the “Penghu Rash.” It sounds like a bizarre urban legend, but it is 100% real.
4. Getting to Penghu: Flight vs. Ferry
There are three main ways to reach the archipelago. Depending on your starting point in Taiwan, here is what I recommend:
- Option 1: Domestic Flight (The Best Choice from Taipei) If you are starting from Taipei, flying is the most logical choice. It takes only 50 minutes from Taipei Songshan Airport (TSA) to Penghu (MZG). It’s fast, efficient, and lets you start your vacation immediately without the hassle of long transits. Flights also depart from Taichung and Kaohsiung.
- Option 2: Fast Ferry from Budai Port (The Budget Choice) I personally took the ferry from Budai Port in Chiayi. The ride takes about 80 to 90 minutes. If you are already traveling in southern Taiwan, this is a great, cost-effective option. However, if you are coming from Taipei, you’ll need to take the High-Speed Rail to Chiayi first, then a taxi to the port, which adds a few hours to your trip.
- Option 3: The “Penghu Wheel” from Kaohsiung (For Slow Travelers) This is a large ferry that can transport cars and scooters. The downside? It takes 4 to 6 hours. Unless you really need to bring your own vehicle from the main island, I’d suggest skipping this.
5. Where to Stay: My Top Pick is Discovery Hotel
When it comes to picking a base camp, I highly recommend the Discovery Hotel (澎澄飯店) in Magong City. Here is a very honest breakdown of why I loved it, plus one minor drawback you should know about.
✅ The Ultimate Location for Island Hopping
This is the biggest selling point. The hotel is located directly across the street from the South Sea Visitor Centre, which is the main terminal for most island-hopping and snorkeling boats. After a long, salty day of snorkeling, being able to walk straight back to your hotel, take a quick shower, and hit the hotel’s sauna is an absolutely unbeatable feeling.
✅ Rainy Day Savior (It’s Attached to a Mall!)
Penghu doesn’t rain often, but I was unlucky enough to get rain on 3 out of my 4 days. Thankfully, the hotel is connected to Pier3, a duty-free shopping mall. When the weather turned bad, it was incredibly convenient to be able to shop for duty-free goods and grab a meal without ever stepping outside and getting wet.
✅ Zero-Hassle Scooter Rental
There is a rental counter right on the first floor. You can rent and pick up your scooter directly from the hotel lobby, saving you the hassle of dragging your luggage across town to find a rental shop.
✅ Great Facilities
The rooms are exceptionally clean and spacious. Plus, the hotel features a swimming pool, a gym, and the aforementioned sauna.
⚠️ The Only Downside: Distance to the Main Street
If I had to point out a flaw, it’s that the hotel is a bit of a walk from Zhongzheng Road—the most bustling street filled with local street food and shops. It’s not a dealbreaker, especially if you have a scooter, but it’s something to keep in mind.
6. Exploring Penghu: My Route-by-Route Guide
My trip was a bit of a “touch-and-go” experience—I missed some spots and was confused by others. But here is my honest take on what’s worth your time and what you can skip.
📍 The North Route (Xiyu Island): Icons & Oddities
This is the most famous route, but manage your expectations!
- Whale Cave (小門鯨魚洞): It actually looks like a whale! It’s a great photo spot and very easy to recognize.
- Penghu Great Bridge (跨海大橋): A must-visit landmark. While you’re there, try the Cactus Ice Cream (易家仙人掌冰). It’s very dense, slightly grassy, but incredibly refreshing.
- Basalt Columns (大菓葉 & 池西岩瀑): To be honest, they were much smaller than I expected. Chixi (池西) is slightly more impressive than Daguoye, but don’t expect grand canyons here.
- My Advice: If you only have time for one route, choose the North Route first.
📍 The East Route (Huxi): The Highlight of My Trip
- Moses Parts the Sea (摩西分海): This was very cool. You can walk on the path that appears only during low tide. Pro Tip: You MUST check the tide table online before you go, and remember you are not allowed to step onto the islet at the end as it’s a protected area.
- Aimen Beach (隘門沙灘): I loved this! It’s a massive, beautiful stretch of white sand. You could easily spend an entire afternoon here.
- Nanliao Ancient Village (南寮古厝): A small, charming village with unique “coral stone” walls. Definitely worth a quick stroll.
- Qingluo Wetland (青螺濕地): I might have gone during the wrong season because I had no idea what I was looking at. Unless you’re a bird-watcher, you can probably skip this.
📍 The South Route: Beaches & Blowholes
- Fenggui Blowhole (風櫃洞): This depends entirely on the tide. If it’s not high tide, you might end up staring at a hole in the rocks wondering what the fuss is about.
- Shili Beach (蒔里沙灘): It’s quite small. If you’re looking for a better beach experience, I heard Shanshui Beach (山水沙灘) is much more beautiful, though I didn’t get to go myself.
7. My Top Recommendation: Wanyou Island (Forget-Me-Not Island)
If you only do one organized tour, make it this one. I booked the Wanyou Island Tour for NT$3,900 per person, and it was the absolute highlight of my trip. It includes a full day of activities and a decent lunch—honestly, it’s a steal for what you get.
Why it’s worth it:
- The Spectacular Lavender Coral Forest: This is the crown jewel of the trip. You will swim over a massive, vibrant field of blue and purple Staghorn Corals. It’s so stunning that it’s often called the “Lavender Forest under the sea.” Seeing that endless blue coral reef was a breathtaking experience.
- Professional Photography Included: The instructors are incredibly professional. Not only do they keep you safe, but they also take high-quality photos of you underwater. You don’t even need to bring your own Go-Pro!
- Fun Water Activities: Besides snorkeling, there’s plenty of time for other exciting water activities. We had an absolute blast riding towable inflatable chairs and being pulled on a surfboard behind a speedboat!
Note for International Travelers: While the guides mainly speak Chinese, the beauty of the ocean is a universal language. Just follow the visual instructions, and you’ll be fine!
8. Will I Go Back? (My Wishlist for Next Time)
Even though my trip was packed, I feel like I barely scratched the surface. Here is what’s on my bucket list for next time:
- Cat Island (Hujing Islet 虎井嶼): I heard this island has a massive population of friendly stray cats. As an animal lover, this is a must-visit.
- Bird Island (Niaoyu 鳥嶼): Ironically, despite its name being “Bird” Island, it is ALSO a paradise full of cats! I’m definitely going there to find my feline friends next time.
- Overnight at the South Four Islands (南方四島): I want to stay overnight to enjoy the complete silence and starry skies of this remote National Park.
Bonus: My Personal Favorite Treat – Grass Jelly Ice (仙草冰)
You cannot leave Penghu without trying Grass Jelly Ice. It’s made from a cooling local herb. Not all shops are created equal when it comes to the “tourist experience.”
- The Best All-Rounder (Lan Ma Ma 藍媽媽): This is the most “foreigner-friendly” option. It has indoor seating with AC, and the ordering process is simple.
- The Local Legend (Yu Guan 玉冠): Widely considered the #1 in terms of taste. The catch? There are NO seats. You have to order at the window and eat it on the street before it melts.
- The DIY Challenge (Zi Yu 紫玉): Another favorite with amazing ice texture, but it’s a “choose-your-own-toppings” style. Unless you speak Chinese, pointing at 20 different unknown ingredients can be overwhelming.